The Art of Tradition: How Third-Generation Long Island Bagel Makers Are Keeping Authentic New York Techniques Alive in 2025

In an era where mass production dominates the food industry, third-generation bagel makers like Harlan Amster, owner of a Springfield-based chain called Bagels-4-U, is a third-generation bagel maker are preserving the authentic techniques that have defined New York bagels for over a century. New York BagelFest, presented by King Arthur Baking Company, will return on Sunday, November 16th, 2025, at Citi Field, marking its largest and most expansive edition to date. Since its debut in 2019, the festival has evolved from a grassroots gathering of bagel lovers into the premier event for the bagel industry, drawing national media, culinary talent, suppliers, and thousands of attendees each year.

The story of Long Island’s bagel heritage runs deep, with Hyman Amster, emigrated from Romania to Newark around the turn of the last century and delivered his bagels to local bakeries by horse and cart. Hyman brought his son, Sonny, into the bagel union as a young boy. In 1957, Sonny partnered with Joseph Pearlman, a New York City bagel maker who earlier purchased Watson Bagel in Newark, already a well-established operation from the 1940s. This generational transfer of knowledge represents more than just family business—it’s the preservation of an art form that transforms simple ingredients into something extraordinary.

The Science Behind Traditional Techniques

What sets authentic New York bagels apart isn’t just nostalgia—it’s science. These dense, chewy rings of dough undergo a boiling process prior to baking, resulting in their unique texture and sheen. Their origins can be traced to the late 19th and early 20th centuries when Eastern European Jewish immigrants introduced their bagel-making traditions to the city. The traditional kettle-cooking method creates a chemical transformation that mass-produced alternatives simply cannot replicate.

During the boiling phase, the bagel’s outer layer undergoes a process called gelatinization. The starches on the surface form a gel-like coating that becomes beautifully crispy when it hits the oven’s heat. This process, perfected by generations of bakers, creates the signature contrast between a crispy exterior and chewy interior that defines an authentic New York bagel.

Preserving Authenticity in Modern Times

Today’s third-generation bagel makers face unique challenges in maintaining traditional methods while meeting modern demands. Samoilis and other bagel makers blame Big Food for manipulating what Mother Nature had made so perfectly. It’s much harder, they say, to find flour that meets their standards. Despite these obstacles, dedicated artisans continue the labor-intensive process that their grandparents perfected.

The traditional rope-and-loop shaping method remains a cornerstone of authentic bagel making. Learn more about how the pros do it in Bagel Rollers: The Masters Behind NYC’s Iconic Delicacy. While it’s more difficult to master than the poke and stretch method, we recommend investing the time in learning this method. It requires practice and a skilled hand to perfect, but the unique looping and twisting motion involved in this method contributes to a superior texture in the finished product.

Long Island’s Commitment to Quality

Long Island has emerged as a stronghold for authentic bagel making, with establishments like brendels leading the charge in preserving traditional methods. Step into a world where culinary craftsmanship meets traditional flavor at Brendel’s Bagels & Eatery of New York. Our celebrated kettlecooked bagels delight the senses: crispy on the outside, yet warm and fluffy inside. Each bagel we make shows our commitment to quality and taste, making us a favorite stop for bagel lovers across Long Island.

At Brendel’s, our bagels and all the items on our menu are made with culinary creativity. We use the finest ingredients in everything that we prepare. Our kettle-cooked bagels are crisp on the outside and warm, dense, and fluffy on the inside. This commitment to traditional methods represents what many Long Island establishments are doing to preserve authentic New York bagel culture.

The Rising Generation and Future Preservation

The future of traditional bagel making depends on attracting and training new artisans. “The Growth Lab exists to spotlight rising bagel makers with the potential to shape the future of our industry. By giving them visibility and connecting them with mentors and seasoned professionals,” says BagelFest founder Sam Silverman. “We’re building a community that supports the next generation of bagel bakers around the world.”

However, the challenge remains significant. He wonders if the tradition of hand-rolled bagels will continue after he retires. “If you can find people like me that take pride in their work, probably,” he said. His son, Neal Samoilis, 24, hopes to take over the business some day, but he didn’t elaborate about the appeal. This generational transition represents both hope and uncertainty for the future of authentic bagel making.

Why Authenticity Matters to Consumers

For consumers seeking genuine quality, the difference between traditional and mass-produced bagels is unmistakable. There’s an appeal for folks who know the difference between a crispy, chewy, hand-rolled bagel – the kind that gives your jaw a workout — and a gummy supermarket variety that some dismiss as “a roll with a hole.” Not all bagel shops hand-roll bagels. The best way to tell if the bagels are indeed rolled by hand: 1) taste and 2) ask the bagel maker.

The traditional process involves meticulous attention to detail. Niazoff’s head bagel baker, Anthony Feehan, arrives at work around 4:30 a.m., mixes the high-gluten dough, hand-rolls the rings and allows them to proof (a process in which the yeast begins to rise) for a few hours. Then they are carted into the refrigerator to stop the yeast from growing. When it’s time to cook, the bagels are thrown in a boiling water vat for about a minute to reactivate the yeast before being covered in seeds, garlic bits or salt and placed onto burlap-covered wooden planks and pushed into the oven for about 15 minutes.

The Cultural Significance

Beyond technique and taste, traditional bagel making preserves cultural heritage. And, of course, for the Jewish community bagels are still iconic. They are staples at a bris, bar mitzvah or shiva buffet — right next to the cream cheese and lox. This cultural connection gives third-generation bagel makers a deeper purpose beyond commercial success.

Unofficially, Long Island has to be the most competitive bagel market in the world. This competition drives innovation while maintaining respect for tradition, creating an environment where authentic techniques can thrive alongside creative variations.

Looking Forward

As 2025 progresses, the dedication of third-generation Long Island bagel makers offers hope for preserving authentic New York techniques. “BagelFest feels like a party, but for the makers, it’s a high-stakes moment. Winning an award can propel a small regional shop into the national culinary conversation. Our 25 exhibitors were hand selected because they are leading the bagel boom in their cities, and when they go head to head, the creativity and craftsmanship reach levels most people never imagined possible for a bagel.”

The survival of traditional bagel making ultimately depends on consumer appreciation for authenticity and the willingness of new generations to learn time-honored techniques. Nevertheless, while bagels are still being made the old-fashioned way, bagel mavens advise, don’t be a culinary fool: Enjoy them while they last. They’re not only delicious but a comfort food, one that can make Sunday morning — actually any morning — a joy to wake up to.

For those seeking authentic New York bagels on Long Island, supporting establishments that maintain traditional methods ensures these techniques continue to flourish for future generations. The art of bagel making may have ancient roots, but its future depends on today’s choices by both makers and consumers who value genuine craftsmanship over convenience.